Ctrl.Alt.Shift deputy editor, Eva Baker, reports from her research trip to Cambodia, where she learns about the fight for gender empowerment from some inspiring Cambodian women...
 

Battembang City, Northern Cambodia, near the Thai boarder. A hotel lobby on a hot afternoon.

The trip so far has been so filled to the brim with eye-opening, inspiring and emotional experiences that I've found it hard to sit down at a computer and catalogue the snap shots and impressions I've been collecting in my mind... it seems impossible to just zoom in on one experience, one place, or one person.
 
This afternoon however (December 9), as we enjoy a rare (but neverless brief) break in the hotel foyer, I grabbed a chance to use the keys on this battered old computer to attempt to describe just one little corner of the tapestry of experience that's becoming more and more colourful with each day we spend in Cambodia.

'Speaking the Cambodian language Khmer, they talked about how vulnerable women should be supported, how women and men needed to work together to understand each other, and share experiences from their personal lives'

This morning the group were taken to visit a project that works to empower women, and encourage them to participate in processes of community organisation, training and leadership. As we sat around an enormous table and watched the women introduce themselves one by one (with an air of calm and grace that has proved to be such a distinctive feature of the Cambodian people I've met), I was hit by how confident these women appeared.

Gender inequality is a big deal in Cambodian society and culture, and this has been reflected so far in the partner organisations we've visited. Many NGOs wage a daily battle against domestic violence, rape, and trafficking of vulnerable women.

Conservative cultural values combined with decades of violent civil war have created a complicated and often restictive environment for women in the South East Asian country, and these problems show no sign of disappearing anytime soon. A radical change in attitudes towards women is required if Cambodia is going to progress to become a more equal, just society, and we were spending the morning with the women who were making that happen.
 
As the mosquitos buzzed outside and we sat in a large hall, grateful of the fan whizzing by the table and a welcome break from the sun, we got a chance to ask the deputy governor of Battembang (a province in the north east of the country that boarders Thailand), what her opinions were on women's progress within Cambodian society, and what we can do to develop it further. Ruos Su Kun was clearly a powerful figure; to be actively working within the political system to change the status quo was no small task, not least for a woman. When she was asked if she felt comfortable working in a male-dominated environment, Ruos emphatically responded that she did, that she was treated with respect, and that she was putting her all into changing the systems in order that Cambodian women could get the treatment and opportunities they justly deserved.
 
We talked about the kind of problems that Cambodian women face, and the kind of processes that were underway at community, district and national level that were working to confront them. The dialogue was definately interesting, though it still remained within the realms of a relatively formal discussion; an interview with questions and answers, with the volunteers scribbling down the wise responses on their reporter notebooks in the stuffy room.
 
Then there was a breakthrough moment.
 
Ruos began to talk about the kind of problems and processes victims of domestic violence face in Cambodia, and made the point that often women report an incident to the police, then within a short amount of time, they take back their testimony and return to their violent husbands. It seems abusive relationships are hard to break out of in all corners of the globe.

 

'Ruos Su Kun was clearly a powerful figure; to be actively working within the political system to change the status quo was no small task, not least for a woman'

I couldn't help breaking the interview format, and telling her that the same thing can happen in abusive relationships at home in England, at which point something happened. Ruos looked me directly in the eye, gave me an aknowledging nod of the head, and from then on, the slightly formal interview became an impassioned, participatory discussion of women's issues around the globe.
 
The women from the organisation were keen to share their experiences and their opinions about men, marriage and gender roles, with us and with each other. Speaking the Cambodian language Khmer, they talked about how vulnerable women should be supported, how women and men needed to work together in order to understand each other.

As the women spoke to us and to each other, the translator began to struggle to keep up with the flurry of words and ideas that was being poured over the table from both sides. The women's gestures, the increasing rhythm of their speech, and the expressions on their faces as they talked reminded me so acutely of converstaions I've had with female friends and colleagues at home. It felt so wonderful to witness that gender inequality and women's progress gets people fired up in the same way in all corners of the world.
 
We left the ladies feeling inspired, emotional and excited about the progress their organisation was making for women in Cambodia. When we think so often in terms of oppositions - the Western and developing world, Cambodian and English, rich and poor, it felt so fantastic to feel we had bonded with the group, and opened up such open and impassioned dialogue. If women from all over could come together to discuss these issues in the same way we did this morning, I can't help thinking the world might be a better place.

Words and Photos: Eva Baker. Eva is in Cambodia as part of a Christian Aid gap year trip - reporting for Ctrl.Alt.Shift. Follow all the Cambodia trip blogs here.