This is my first entry for Nepal-based ‘Postcards From The Edge’. I am writing from Kathmandu where I am working with an NGO (Volunteers Initiative Nepal). I have chosen to write this first entry on poverty, as poverty in Nepal targets the most vulnerable members of society, most poignantly, children.

The Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu is one of the most thought-provoking sites in the whole of Nepal. It is decorated to perfection with Hindu sculptures and a splendid golden roof. But it was not the magnificent structure which captivated my mind when I visited; it was the rising smoke which quivered before me as I descended the stairs to the Bagmati River.

As the scene panned out before me, I was in awe; the river was filthy and contained thick waste - but even more shocking, were the open-cremations which abundantly occurred on the Ghats beside it. The degrading bodies were wrapped in bright cloth and were emitting opaque smoke - the presence of dead bodies in a public space was intense, but even more so, were the children who nonchalantly waded through the water next to them. The children were looking for something. Some had rods, whilst others were just bent down using their bare hands to search for an unknown treasure.

"They are all physically underweight, and most are under twelve years of age; but they have a withered appearance that is alien to youth. You can see that they have been exposed to such trauma that they have lost any sense of innocence and warmth."

I was so puzzled that I asked a local about the source of their quest; the response was shocking: “They are looking for items from the dead bodies. In the Hindu faith we put money into the mouths of the deceased before the cremations to ensure prosperity in the afterlife.” So, these children were looking for unburned money - a pittance in thick filth. 

After this incident I began to enquire about the children at the river. Other tourists felt the same sense of shock and one man told me that the children also paddle through the river in search of wood that had resisted complete degradation in the cremations. He told me that the children would go on to sell this wood to local restaurants for very little. Whilst walking through the streets of Kathmandu, the dire situation of children in Nepal was further exposed in its horrific light. Many children walk around Thamel begging for money and food - they stare into your eyes with such a bleak intensity that it stirs you. They are all physically underweight, and most are under twelve years of age; but they have a withered appearance that is alien to youth. You can see that they have been exposed to such trauma that they have lost any sense of innocence and warmth.

On one occasion, I walked out of a supermarket, and aware of the presence of the street children outside, I rapidly put my purse back into my bag, but I was not fast enough. The tugging on my arm began and it was turning into a pinch; I turned to see a boy putting his hands to his mouth imitating hunger. I could not doubt that such a person was in need, and I slipped him a note. After this, I was told that giving this money was actually a massive hindrance to the well-being of the child. I was informed by another volunteer that the children do not eliminate their hunger by buying food but by sniffing glue from paper bags. My money had just gone to this - I felt unable to do anything for these children. I asked if it was possible to buy them something instead, perhaps give them something to eat. But I was abruptly told that what you buy the children would only be sold back to the supermarkets for less than it is worth so the children can buy glue instead. All seemed futile.

So why are these children on the streets? How do people let them roam in their hungry and intoxicated state? Where are the NGOs that seem to promise support to those in need with their abundant offices in Nepal?

Well, the answers are not incredibly substantial - but one thing is clear; not all NGOs are able to keep children in their refuges. The local media has reported that certain street children cannot bear the boredom of the places which some of the NGOs provide. It was surmised that the NGOs in question only have short-term goals of providing food and shelter for the children, and this does not provide any promise of long-term stability and personal development for their future...

It is a really devastating situation and it seems that at present, there is no long-term vision to permanently alleviate the suffering of orphans in Nepal.

Words and photos: Chloe Boulton.